Rabbits will devour a wide variety of plant material, especially in the spring when young, succulent new growth is present. Small flowers and vegetables can be ripped right out of the ground, and other damage can be identified by chew marks on older woody growth, clean-cut clipping of young stems, and rabbits' distinctive round droppings.

What makes controlling rabbits so difficult is that they reproduce quickly and often. Although their life expectancy is 12 to 15 months, they can produce up to four litters per year, with as many as six young per litter. The young are born in shallow nests in the ground but are able to leave the nest in two to four weeks.

Although baby bunnies can look cute when they are young, they will quickly establish their feeding patterns and favorite places to visit. Making matters worse is that most rabbits are random eaters, taking a nibble here and there every night until most of your landscape has been damaged.

While some people have success trapping rabbits using traps filled with carrots, fruits and other vegetables, the easiest way to control them is to make your garden undesirable with the use of repellants. We recommend a two-pronged approach that odorizes not only the soil but the plant foliage as well.

Dry soil repellants can be shaken out right onto the soil surface; we recommend applying around the garden perimeter. Liquid repellants can be sprayed directly onto the foliage of their favorite (damaged) plants. It is important to re-apply the repellents according to package directions until you have broken the feeding patterns of the rabbits. Signs to look for are new growth appearing on plants and a decrease in droppings.

Rabbits have many of the same plant tastes as deer, so another solution is to plant deer-resistant plants in your landscape.

With our days getting cooler, many trees are beginning to show their spectacular fall color. Autumn is a great time to plant trees because the ground is still warm enough to promote root growth without the stress of summer heat watering requirements. Plus, a tree planted in fall will be able to take advantage of winter and spring rains and be fully established by next summer, enabling you to benefit from the cooling effect its provided by its shade.

When planting your tree, consider how it might provide the maximum shade effect for your home. A shade tree planted on the east side of your home will block the heat from the morning sun. Planting on the west and/or southwest side of your home shields the hot afternoon sun. And finally, a tree planted on the south side of your home can provide year-round sunblock protection. All three examples will help to keep your home cooler in the summertime.

If you select a deciduous tree, you will benefit in the winter from the opposite sun shielding effect. Minus the foliage, the sun's rays can shine through the empty branches and help you warm the inside of your home. You certainly can't argue with that!

Along with the energy benefits, shade trees provide beauty to your landscape year-round. They offer habitats to birds, squirrels and other backyard urban creatures. Trees increase the value of our homes and the beauty of our neighborhoods. They also give back oxygen to our environment. If you choose a deciduous tree, pick one with majestic winter form.

When you plant your shade tree, do not plant it too close to your home, patio or walls. Remember, many of the best shade trees grow to heights of 30-50 feet and taller, which means they will also have a good spread and substantial root systems. So come on in, and our staff of nursery experts will help you pick out the perfect shade tree(s) for your home. Then get ready to enjoy their fall foliage and the pleasing shade they will provide for many summers to come!

Are you planning on putting a stone path in your lawn or garden? If so, you've got a great opportunity for some great garden design. Don't just plunk those stones atop your sod! There are many low-growing perennial plants that are just great between stones in a path, and will add more personality to your garden than mere grass.

To help you select the best ground cover, consider:

• The amount of sunlight reaching your path (full sun, partial shade, full shade), because different plants thrive under different conditions.
• The amount of traffic the plants will need to endure. Light traffic means the plants will be stepped on once or twice a week. Moderate traffic is once a day. And heavy traffic is similar to walking on your lawn several times a day.
• The type of soil (poor or rich) and moisture conditions (wet or dry).
• Appearance: plant height, texture and color. If the path is heavily traveled, or people will be running on it, keep the plant height low, or use a plant that bends easily (you don't want people tripping over the plants).

Improve the growing conditions when you carve out the soil for your new stone path. It's difficult to grow anything in a trampled area. The soil gets so compacted that roots cannot deliver water and nutrients to the plant. Add good drainage as well as a layer of topsoil at least 1 in. deep around the stones so your ground cover can thrive.

Finally, help your new ground cover prosper with a bi-weekly soaking (the plants need to stay moist) and a weekly hand weeding. And if you'd like to keep the plants short between the stones, consider plants that tolerate mowing, such as thyme and ajuga.

Perhaps one of natures greatest miracles are flower bulbs. They go into the ground as a crusty brown bulb, and over the course of four to five months burst through the soil and become beautiful blooming flowers. And who doesn’t love to see daffodils or tulips and other flower bulbs in their full blooming glory? For many of us, it’s the first sign that spring has finally arrived.

Tulips, crocus and daffodils are the traditional standby bulbs. But for those that like the unusual, there are many spectacular varieties to choose from. They can be layered in containers or in your flower bed so that the colors just keep popping up. It’s best to consider how many layers (or rows) you want to plant and work from low bulbs in the front of your planting bed (or outside edge of container) and then gradually increase the height towards the back of the bed (or inside of the container).

The lowest growing bulbs are Crocus, which are also the earliest blooming. In the middle of your flower bed or containers consider using Leucojum, Muscari and Scilla. For the back of the bed or middle of your containers plant Allium, Daffodil, Dutch Iris, Hyacinth, Narcissus, or Tulips to complete your layered design.

Three bulbs need to be chilled for 4-6 weeks prior to planting in order to replicate their natural native growing environment. These include Crocus, Hyacinth and Tulips. Simply place the in a paper bag in the back of your refrigerator and do not remove until your holes are dug and you are ready to plant. Drop them into their holes and cover them immediately.

Two spring blooming bulbs that perform better on their own are Bearded Iris and Dutch Iris. Bearded Iris re-produce themselves and spread out over time so give them lots of room. The giant Amaryllis perform when forced indoors in containers where their beauty can be enjoyed without venturing outside.

And last but not least, fall is the prime time to plant garlic bulbs and onion sets. Plan ahead so you can enjoy a delicious summer harvest by planting these bulbs in the ground by the end of November.

So don't be disappointed when your neighbors have beautiful flower bulbs popping up in their gardens next spring and you have bare ground. Plan and plant ahead! Choose your bulbs now and plant in the fall to see the treasure of their blooms in spring.

Lilies, narcissus and hyacinths need to be planted in the fall as well. Don't forget that hyacinths and Oriental lilies are fragrant. Plant them where your nose as well as eyes can appreciate their beauty.

And last but not least, fall is the time to plant garlic. Planning ahead for a summer garlic harvest requires putting the bulbs in the ground in the fall.

Don't be disappointed when your neighbors have daffodils and crocus popping up in the yard next spring and you have bare ground. Plan and plant ahead! Choose your bulbs now and plant in the fall.

Many of us like to push the limits a bit on plants we grow, hoping one that is not quite suited for our area will survive the winter. So we've usually got a few that aren't as cold-hardy as they should be. As the winter nights get colder, these plants may be damaged or even killed. Even plants that are hardy can be damaged in a severe cold snap.

Plants suffer cold damage when they lose moisture from their leaves but can't replace the moisture because the soil is dry or the water in the ground is frozen. Knowing and following a few basic principles will go a long way towards protecting your plants from winter damage and helping them leaf out again next spring. In the valley areas we want you to water every month on all newer planted plants because of our warm sunny days and cold nights. October, November and December can be the driest months so watering is important.

Moist soils in colder regions will stay moist after the first fall (and subsequent) rains. The key is to make sure that the ground doesn't freeze down to the root zone of sensitive plants. Moist soil holds and releases more heat than dry soil, creating a more humid environment around the plant when the cold pulls moisture from the foliage.

The best way to insulate the soil is with a 2-3" layer of mulch. Place the mulch around the plant to at least a little past the drip line of each plant (the drip line is the outer edge of where water will fall when it drips from foliage). The mulch will allow moisture in but help prevent the ground from freezing down to the root zone. Snow on the ground (or on top of the mulch) will also provide some insulation--if you have snow on the ground, leave it right where it is!

Another way to protect plants is to stack or place pine needles or leaves around each plant. Pine needles, straw, or hay are best, because they allow the plant to breathe--but in a temporary pinch, leaves will work. Simply start from the ground up and create a pile that covers the main branching structure to at least two feet above the ground.

Covering plants with frost cloth or burlap will also protect plants an extra 2-6 degrees. The material should be secured over frames or stakes so that it does not touch the plant; otherwise, it will just transfer the cold. Make sure to remove these coverings during the daytime on any day when temperatures stay above freezing; this will allow the plants to absorb the warming sunlight.

When it snows, don't rush out to brush all that snow off your plants. Believe it or not, a light layer of snow is actually good for perennials. Heavy wet snows can weigh down and break branches--but try not to remove all the snow, as it is an excellent insulator against the frigid temperatures that may injure plants.

Do not prune cold-sensitive plants until spring has arrived. In a sense, let the cold do the pruning for you. If your plant is injured, leave the damaged burnt leaves on the plant to protect the foliage underneath. Premature trimming may stimulate tender new growth that could be damaged by a late cold snap. You may also end up cutting out more than is necessary, mistaking still-alive growth for dead. Prune only after new growth has started to appear.

If you have any questions as to which plants to protect, just ask one of our nursery professionals. We'll help you make sure you're ready to help your plants stand up to the cold of winter.

Perhaps nothing is a greater challenge to home gardeners than creating a deer-resistant landscape. Deer will eat almost anything, especially in the spring when plants are producing lush and tender new growth, and in fall and winter when natural food sources dry up and disappear.

To make matters worse, what deer in one area won't touch, others will devour in a different area. How prolific and available local natural food sources are for deer also plays a role in how often they will venture into neighborhoods. That said, some plants are definitely less "desirable" than other plants.

The key is to "camouflage" your garden by using plants that contain natural chemicals or have characteristics that deter deer from wanting to eat them. You can create a scent barrier by using a variety of strongly aromatic plants, shrubs, and herbs throughout your garden. Deer rely on their sense of smell to determine what is safe or desirable to eat. By using plants with a wide variety of strong odors, you can confuse the deer and they will usually leave the area and go to a landscape where they can clearly identify what they are eating.

Deer are also lazy and will often pass on a garden if the first plants they encounter taste bitter, have tough, coarse, hairy, or prickly foliage--or if they exude a sticky, milky sap when broken. Deer rarely eat these types of plants unless they are desperate. Another natural solution is to use plants that grow fast and can recover quickly from nibble damage.

Young trees can be damaged by deer two different ways: They can eat the foliage up to the browse line (usually no higher than 6' from the ground), plus bucks will often try to polish their antlers on trunks under 3" in diameter. So, we suggest either planting more mature trees or protecting them with a wire cage or scent barrier until the trees mature.

Until you have a chance to get your deer-resistant garden in, there are also non-toxic chemical solutions to deterring deer from your landscape. Some deer repellents work by making plants smell bad. Others use deer predator scents to trick the deer into thinking your garden is unsafe. A third kind of repellent works by making the foliage of your plants taste bad. These repellents can be varied occasionally and should be used until deer associate your yard with bad tastes and smells. (Unfortunately, you may get new deer coming by after the old ones leave, so a better long-term solution is to plant things they don't like.)

Stop by and one of our nursery experts will help you plan the perfect deer-resistant garden, one with plants that you will love--and the deer will hate.