During these difficult fiscal times, we can choose to throw our hands up in despair, or we can embrace the creativity, imagination, and determination of our predecessors who came together in adversity, and in so doing, made this country the great land that it is. During wartimes and depressions, Americans re-assessed their priorities and realized that so much of what makes life easier, also strips it of the very qualities that make it worth living.

Victory gardens are not a new concept, but have come back into favor as grocery store prices have skyrocketed. Ironically, the food that we grow in our own backyards has a richer, fuller flavor, with aromas that have been bred out of the pre-dried, pre-packaged foods to which so many of us have turned. This is particularly true of fruits and vegetables; tomatoes have been hybridized to make them symmetrical and red, with a long shelf life, and a durability to survive the rigors of automated harvesting and long-distance shipping.

But heirlooms, or heritage tomatoes, have become increasingly popular and available. Prized for their outstanding flavor, their unusual shapes and vast range of colors add to the plate as well as the palate. They range in color from purple to orange, green, white and even black, and many are every bit as hardy as hybrid varieties.

By definition, an heirloom tomato's seeds can be traced back at least a century, and reproduce through an open, or natural, pollination process. You may choose to grow your heirlooms from seed, but a quick visit to your garden center will probably yield starter plants such as the popular Brandywine tomato, or other varieties that are local favorites. Pick out healthy looking plants with no yellowing or speckling on the leaves. Check the tag, looking for a string of letters; these denote resistance to the following diseases:

• A--Alternaria leaf spot
• F--Fusarium wilt
• FF--Race 1 and Race 2 Fusarium
• L--Septoria leaf spot
• N--Nematodes
• T--Tobacco mosaic virus (never smoke around your tomatoes!!)
• V--Verticilium wilt.

Thus, a tag with the code of FFLT means that the plant is resistant to both common strains of fusarium wilt, septoria leaf spot, and tobacco mosaic virus.

There are two different types of tomato growth types, determinate and indeterminate. Which you go with will depend on where you plan to grow them (they love the sun!) and how much room you have. Determinates are compact and bushy, tend to be early growers, and are best suited for small gardens and container gardens. Indeterminates are vinier and will need support. They tend to fruit up later, so why not plant both for a constant supply?

Plant tomatoes approximately 2 to 3 feet apart from each other or in rows 3 feet apart with the plants spaced at a foot. You may plant when the temperature is a consistent 50 degrees F, but the plants won't begin to set fruit until the overnight low is regularly above 55 degrees F. Use soil amendment, and add water evenly for best results.

When your plants begin to need staking, consider twig or bamboo tripods, or trellising; your garden will not only prove delicious tasting, it will also look good!

Looking around at the choices available in tomato plants, it's easy to get confused. What do they mean by determinate and indeterminate--not to mention semi-determinate? Should one buy an heirloom or a hybrid? Everyone knows what a cherry tomato is--but what is the difference between a beefsteak and a salad tomato?

Determinate, Indeterminate, and Semi-determinate

Determinate varieties are also known as bush tomatoes. They stop growing when fruit sets on the top bud, ripen most of their fruit in a short period, usually about 2 weeks, and then die. They generally require no staking or caging and are usually early-maturing. Pruning is not recommended. The plants and their fruit are generally smaller than indeterminate sorts. Most varieties that do well in pots are determinate.

Indeterminate varieties are also called "vining" tomatoes. They grow, bloom, and produce fruit until the end of the growing season (generally first frost). These almost always require staking or caging for support, and pruning may be required.

Semi-indeterminate varieties are basically indeterminate in nature, but have some determinate qualities, such as earlier yield and less need for staking.

Non-hybrid, Heirloom and Hybrid

Tomatoes are usually self-fertilizing. A non-hybrid tomato is one that has been allowed to self-fertilize to produce non-hybrid seed. Growers can save seed of non-hybrid tomatoes to plant the next season's crop. Non-hybrid tomatoes will grow true from seed. Old, non-hybrid, cultivated varieties are often known as heirloom varieties.

Hybrid tomatoes have two genetically different parents that are crossed each year to produce the hybrid tomato seed. Although hybrid tomatoes do produce seed, the seeds will not have the characteristics of the hybrid — though it can be fun to plant them just to see what you get!

General Types

Beefsteak Tomatoes

Beefsteak tomatoes are known for large size and thick, meaty flesh. The pulp cavity of this type is small and may resemble a "marbled" steak--hence the name. This meatiness makes them hold together well when sliced, and the large size makes them great for sandwiches. One slice does the trick!

Salad Tomatoes

Also referred to as globe or slicing tomatoes, this variety is medium-sized, meaty enough to hold together well, and juicy. The smaller size makes them popular for salad wedges (bite-sized), or sliced to accompany a meal.

Cherry Tomatoes

Measuring less than an inch in diameter, these tomatoes make excellent bite-sized nibbles or tasty additions to salads. Cherry tomatoes are also great for grilling on skewers. Sub-types include grape and currant tomatoes, which are smaller in size but slightly sweeter than regular cherry tomatoes.

Plum Tomatoes

Also known as Roma, these are egg-shaped tomatoes that have thick skin and flesh. They are less juicy than most other varieties, which makes them good candidates for baking, canning, and broiling. They also do well for sauces and paste.

Paste Tomatoes

These are dryer than other varieties; many plum tomatoes are also "paste tomatoes." They are good for making tomato paste and dried tomatoes.

Click Here for a list of the many variety of tomatoes we carry at Greenhouse Garden Center.

Selecting and Growing Homegrown Tomatoes

Tomatoes are the favorite vegetable for home growing. If you want to grow a special variety you can't find as a transplant, we carry many unique seed varieties that you can sprout the indoors (they germinate readily) and grow your own transplants.

Select a disease-resistant VF-1 hybrid variety, such as Ace, Better Boy, Celebrity, Early Girl or one that's appropriate for your needs and climate zone.

Choose a spot in full sun, and prepare the soil by digging it deeply with a spade and mixing in Bumper Crop Organic Soil Amendment.

Add a good vegetable fertilizer such as Master Nursery Tomato and Vegetable Food.

Plant transplants deeply. If they're leggy snip off the lower leaves, make a little trench with the trowel, lay the plant in sideways, and bend the stem up gently. Roots will form all along the buried stem.

Choose a staking system (such as a tomato cage or trellis).

Water deeply and continue to irrigate so the soil stays evenly moist.

Tips on Choosing Your Tomato Plants:

1. Height and bushiness of the plant are serious considerations, particularly for gardeners growing tomatoes in small spaces. Check to see if the variety you select is determinate (bush type) or indeterminate (vine type).

2. Consider taste, size, shape, color, mildness, (acidity or non-acidity), disease resistance, and cracking resistance.

3. Your intended use for the tomato may dictate your selection. For instance, if you want to use your tomato crop for preserving or for making tomato paste, you'll want to select a variety that has a strong tomato flavor and lasts a long time in the refrigerator. "Roma" is a good variety for making tomato paste.

4. Depending on when you plant, the length of your growing season and if you are patient or not you may be concerned about the "days to maturity" (the time it takes a transplant to bear ripe fruit.)

5. Finally, consider selecting a few unique tomato plants, that you have not tried before or a novelty variety no one else in the neighborhood grows.

Vegetable gardens are so satisfying and rewarding. Consider what your very favorite vegetables, fruits or herbs are, and then imagine how exciting it would be to just step out the door of your home to harvest them fresh for your meals of the day! Not only is this instant satisfaction, but you'll enjoy the very best flavors—nothing bought in the supermarket can compare. As an added plus, you can proudly announce to guests, "Oh yes, these were from my garden."

Follow these steps. It's simple.

1. Pick a sunny location, free of grass (or "free it" from the grass!):
Some veggies can tolerate shade. Try garlic, onions, chives, basil, and broccoli in shady areas.

2. In-Ground or Raised Bed:
Decide whether you will be planting in the ground or in a raised bed. Obviously, if you pick the raised bed, there will be additional preparation if the boxes haven't been made yet.

3. Soil preparation:
Determine whether your soil is predominantly sand or clay. If you are lucky, it will be a nice loam, but don't count on that. Chances are, your soil isn't a loam. You will want to supplement the native soil with a composting product together with a good planting mix. Roto-till or good old-fashioned shovel in these amendments and level out the soil.

4. Design for Access and Convenience:
Depending on the size of your vegetable garden, you will need to consider how to access it for feeding, weeding, and harvesting. Perhaps it is narrow (up to 3 feet), in which case, you can reach from the garden bed edge without a problem for these chores. If your garden is wider than this, plan a way to access your plants without trampling them and compacting your soil around the plants. This may mean a stepping stone path through the middle, or small paths to otherwise unreachable plants.

5. Plant selection:
Plant selection ties into #6 below. Presumably you've already got an idea of what you want to grow. Think about your vegetable garden's ultimate size, shape and support needs when designing plant placement. Tomatoes and pole green beans need support structures. They should be placed more toward the back of your garden, so they don't shade your smaller/shorter vegetables and herbs. Carefully consider the ultimate plant size for space considerations. They are little when planting, but some veggies get very large. They'll need the space and airflow.

6. Companion Planting--the technique of combining two plants for a particular purpose:
Books have been written on this very topic, and we cannot begin to cover all the issues in this one article. But we think that you’re getting the idea. There are many things to consider when starting your vegetable garden this season. Companion planting is an important one.

7. Fertilize:
You have choices here: regular chemical fertilizer (liquid or slow-release) or organic fertilizer like . Remember when choosing fertilizers that you are ultimately planning to eat these vegetables.

8. Pest Management--get your pinching fingers ready, or your garden hose:
Again, remember that you plan to eat these vegetables, so your choices on pest control are limited. Also, you need insect pollinators for fruit/vegetable production, so bees and other pollinators are important for your vegetable garden. If you must spray the pest insects, a year-round spray oil is a safe remedy. You should pick a time of day with minimal bee activity and carefully follow the product instructions.

9. Mulch, Mulch, Mulch--for weed control and good moisture retention:
Throughout the growing season, water and periodically fertilize; keep weeds down to eliminate plant space competition. Have fun watching your vegetables and herbs grow. If you do grow any vegetables from the legume family, such as green beans, these plants add nitrogen back to the soil. What a plus! At the end of the season, instead of ripping the plants up, roots and all, leave the roots behind. It's good for your soil!

Soon many of us will be planting our tomatoes (some may have already started early tomatoes) and pole beans. These vegetables are tiny when we buy them or start them from seed, but will soon be in great need of some structural support. Those of us who have been growing vegetables for years have tried many different types of supports with varying success. Let's look at some of the old standbys and suggestions to make them work effectively for you.

But first, we want you to consider size control on your tomato plants. What do we mean? Left to their own, some tomato plants, or vines actually, will grow and grow to a size no structure can hold. Before that happens to you, consider one of the best ways to control the size.

As your tomato plant grows to a 2-3 foot height, look at its structure. You will notice that supplemental branching sprouts from leaf axial areas. You can control the size of your plant by removing some (or all of them, if you like) of this secondary branching. Some tomato growers highly recommend this technique, others suggest moderation, and we are simply suggesting that removing some of them will keep your plant size under control.

You don't have to remove all of them, but you can. You can also eventually "top" your tomato plant, too. Both techniques will offer size control. However, both techniques will also limit the degree of fruiting. On the plus side, this method will keep your tomato plant at a size manageable for you and your plant structures.

Tomato cages ...you know the kind that I mean. They are funnel shaped and made from thick wire. They come in several different sizes, starting with one that is only about two feet tall. Of course, tomato plants don't usually stop growing at that height. So this size will work with young plants that need early support, but they are not meant to last for the entire season, especially with indeterminate tomatoes that become exceptionally large.

Once that small tomato plant that you purchased in a 4-inch pot grows into a 2-foot plant, it is time to add the largest of the tomato cages, the one that is 4-5 feet tall. You don't even have to remove that first small cage, necessarily. But your growing plant will need this further support, that is for sure. If you have chosen to remove a portion of your tomato plant through thinning and/or topping, these cages should work just fine.

Trellis structures are great for tomatoes, not just the flowering vines in your perennial gardens. Yes, you can grow tomatoes by espalier. Not only will this be a sturdy structure, it is esthetically beautiful, too. As your tomato grows, offer support to the branches by tying them to the trellis. To minimize the weight of the plant, you may need to employ the "thinning" technique (removal of some of the axial branching). The trellis can be placed up against a wall for support. You can also take two trellises and form a trellis "A-frame." Plant the tomato in the middle and as it grows, you have trellis support on both sides of the plant.

Another structure can be used for both tomatoes and for pole beans. Pole beans are great because the crops are huge and produce for a long time. The story of Jack and the Bean Stalk has some truth in it: pole beans will grow and grow and grow! One of our favorite ways to support them is wooden or bamboo teepees.

You can take three 1x1 inch stakes (6 feet or longer) and drill one hole through all three at one end. Insert a large screw bolt through the three holes and tighten them together with a butterfly nut, but not too tightly. You want enough play to allow you to turn the stakes into position (then you can tighten). That's it! Simple. Equally elegant is tying together three 6'-8' bamboo stakes and forming the same type of teepee. Plant at least 3 bean plants at the base of each of the three teepee legs too, so there will be, at a minimum, 9 bean plants per teepee. You can also add a stake between two teepees, interconnecting them, to give the bean plants further growth support, once their height has exceeded the teepee stake heights.

Our wooden trellis structures will also work perfectly for the pole beans. Hammer a 5-6 foot 2x2 inch stake into the ground at one end of your trellis. Hammer a second one into the ground at the opposite end. This provides about a 5-6 foot long vertical trellis structure for your beans. This looks great, and is a fabulous way to grow beans as well. Leave space on both sides of this structure, so that you can access all the beans.

Off you go to purchase your supplies for this year's vegetable garden. Remember, attractive structures add interest to your garden. Oh yes, and they will keep your tomatoes, beans or any other sprawling veggies much neater looking , less tangled and still offer plentiful vegetable production. Good luck, and enjoy!

When planning a landscape, it's important to look at the whole area at once. Most of us tend to focus on one area and miss others. Perhaps the most overlooked area in landscaping is the area by the curb--or between the sidewalk and the curb. It is the first area visitors (and potential buyers) see, yet often it receives the least thought and attention in the garden. Landscaping this area can also be more challenging because of heavy foot traffic, reflective heat from the street (and the sidewalk, if you have one) unique water needs, and city codes.

Many times homeowners opt to just fill these areas in with lawn, but turf in a curb area does little to add any visual appeal, requires weekly maintenance, and uses a lot of water. With a little planning, grass can be replaced with sturdy ground cover plants and/or drought tolerant shrubs, and then finished off with decorative mulch.

It's important to use mostly low mounding plants so you don't obscure the view of your home. This also allows small children to be better aware of traffic. You might choose dwarf versions of barberry, cotoneaster, germander, juniper, potentilla, spirea and weigela.

To add some texture and interest to the area, consider grassy-textured plants such as dwarf Lily of the Nile, daylilies or Mexican feather grass. If more color is desired, add hardy perennials such as cranesbill, gaura, lamb's ears, lavender, meadow sage and yarrow.

Complete the design with hardy, sun-loving groundcover like gazania, ornamental strawberry, trailing lantana, or creeping thyme. To help get all of your plants established faster and to give the area a finished look, top-dress with a decorative mulch. This will also help keep the ground moist longer between each watering.

Curb areas don't have to be difficult and they certainly don't have to be boring. Give your curb the attention it deserves and make it the first thing people notice about your home. Just click on the gallery link to get started. Then stop by and one of our garden experts will be happy to help you design a curb area with beauty and appeal.

Petunias have long been a favorite summer-flowering annual among gardeners. These reliable bloomers come in a wide variety of colors.

Petunias are one of the best choices for planting as a mass display in beds, and they also look great in pots or hanging baskets.

And, best yet, they are very easy to grow. As with any plant, after you bring them home, let them harden a bit outdoors before planting. Start them in a shadier area and bring them out gradually into full sun. They like a sunny location and a well drained soil. Place them about 12 inches apart in a garden bed. Pinch them back periodically to encourage branching.

Tomato hornworms are the larvae of a large sphinx moth that is about the size of a hummingbird. In spring the moth lays eggs on the underside of tomato (and related plants like pepper and eggplant) leaves, and the hornworm is quite small when it first emerges. However, they are big eaters (of leaves) and grow up quickly. Usually, you won't even discover this fellow until it is large--about 2 inches long and fat! They are quite distinctive, actually handsome with their diagonal white stripes and horns on the rear.

Don't be afraid of the hornworms. They look more frightening than they are. They don't bite or sting, just try to look big and ferocious. You can easily handpick to remove from your plants and just throw them away. When they are younger and smaller, use Bt (bacillus thuringiensis) as an effective management technique.

Some gardeners have a different approach to the tomato hornworm. While handpicking a hornworm, look to see if you find little white cocoons attached to its back. If you do see this, that cocoon is a pupating braconid wasp, which is a garden-friend predator. Capture the hornworm and keep it (or all of them) in a container, feeding them tomato leaves. You are creating a nursery for the braconid wasps that can then be released into your garden! These wasps will help control the hornworm population.

Other natural predators are birds and the larvae of the green lacewing. Plant your gardens to create an inviting habitat for all of these natural predators, and you'll control this voracious eater of your tomato leaves. Luckily, hornworms don't eat the tomato!

How deep should I plant my tomato plants?

Answer:
Although it goes against conventional wisdom, tomato plants should be planted deeper in order for them to grow a stronger root system and produce more fruit. Set your plants deeply into the soil burying them up to their first set of true leaves (strip off all other leaves below these).

For taller spindly plants, pinch off the bottom leaves (leave the branches) and lay them sideways as in a trench. Carefully bend the stem upward so that the upper few inches of stem and leaves are above the soil surface. Although the plant will look crooked for a few days, it will straighten up and roots will develop along the buried stem.